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[Mar. 30th, 2008|05:33 pm] |
| [ | Mood |
| | tired | ] |
| [ | Music |
| | Arab Strap - Pica Luna | ] |
Hey! So I'm back from Greece.
So, as you all (probably) know, I took a course, "Traveling Seminar: Greek Sculpture," last quarter. We took a field trip to Greece over spring break; it was pretty sweet. For this trip we each prepared two presentations; mine were on the Artemision bronze Zeus and the East pediment of the temple of Zeus at Olympia. Others were on things like the caryatid from the Siphnian treasury at Delphi, the Acanthus column at Delphi, the Nike of Paionios, the two Argive kouroi from Delphi, etc., etc.
So we left Chicago bright and early on Friday morning (I woke up at 6 am, boo) and arrived in Athens some hours later at 9:30-ish am (local time) on Saturday. After proceeding to the hotel for a little while, we went to the Acropolis. Richard's only plan was to keep us awake, but that ended up not being a problem since everyone except me slept on the plane, and I had a large amount of coffee (which funnily enough kept me from sleeping on Saturday night, leading me to having gotten like 7 hours of sleep in the past three nights combined). Anyway, we went up and looked around at everything; it was pretty sweet. Unfortunately the Acropolis Museum is still closed (because...the architect was a complete idiot: quite aside from the fact that after designing and building the thing, Greece decided to expropriate the property of two very lovely and historic (19th c.) buildings right in front of the museum in order to demolish them (which has not yet happened) to improve the view of the lower slopes of the Acropolis from the museum, the reason that moving everything has taken much longer than originally planned is that all of the doorways in the museum were too small to move the packed-up marbles through) and the temple of Athena Nike is closed because of (nearly-complete) restoration. But it was still very cool.
On Sunday we went to Kerameikos (which was my favorite site, after Delphi and Olympia) and the Agora (which was also pretty cool). Around this time I also started getting antsy about how long it had been since I used a computer. But this quickly passed, because the food was delicious. On Monday we had been scheduled to go to the National Museum, but then it turned out that Angela's stepfather's friend's graduate student (or something like this...there may have been another link in the chain) had at one point been involved in the restoration projects on the Acropolis and is supposed to start working on it again after he gets his PhD soon. So he took us inside two of the restricted areas: the temple of Athena Nike (which was actually very boring; the only interesting thing about it is the sculpture, which was not on site) and the Parthenon (which was obviously much more awesome), whence I took many pictures of cool things. Since we ended up spending a long time on the Acropolis, and then had a really long lunch, Richard decided to scrap the NM visit and move it to Friday instead (which had itself previously been meant to be spent on the slopes of the Acropolis).
In Greece, March 25th is Independence Day (from The Turk), which was on Tuesday during our visit. Therefore, everything was closed; instead of going to the closed museums, we spent the day driving around the countryside of Attica visiting the findspots of various kouroi and korai. Amusingly, back on Saturday Angela's uncle had direly warned us that there was going to be a torrential downpour all day Tuesday; instead it turned out to be the nicest weather of our entire trip. (Which was, btw, almost literally could not have been better; the only time the weather was an inconvenience was Friday afternoon and evening, when it was a little chilly and rainy. Earlier, however, in addition to the perfect weather on Tuesday, it had rained all night from Wednesday evening into Thursday and then stopped literally 3 minutes before we left the hotel to visit Olympia.) We pranced around in fields and looked for sherds (no luck, alas) and broke into the churchyard of some Byzantine church next to the Phrasikleia findspot in order to have a lovely picnic on the grass. Speaking of breaking in, earlier on the same day we had broken into (admittedly, on the highly-dubious authorization of a nearby parking lot manager) a construction site on the beach in order to then break into the temple of Apollo Zoster, which was very cool (and wet). Good times were had by all. Anyway, we then drove to Delphi (actually, Arachova, which is about 5-10 minutes down the road from Delphi, and is a slightly smaller and much nicer town) and I climbed up a hill overlooking the valley area. It was pretty awesome. The hotel we stayed in was also literally the best hotel I've ever stayed in; Kenny and I shared a room that had two completely separate bathrooms, two bedrooms [with queen or king sized beds...] that had a wall between them, and a balcony that wrapped around the entire suite and overlooked the vale). Delphi itself (on Wednesday) was also amazing; however, we kind of wasted some time by climbing up to the stadium, which we only did because Richard wanted to show us this inscription on the wall, and as a result we had a bit of a rushed time in the museum, and only one out of like four people got to make their presentations actually in front of the subject thereof; alas. Then we spent a really long time (because of a few longish stops) getting from Delphi to Olympia. We ditched Richard in the hotel and wandered off through town, got pizza, and repaired to the hotel lobby, where we (sans Nicola) decided it would be a good idea to play drinking games with Heineken (later subsidized by the good Richard Neer and thus possibly the university) while making dirty jokes involving 5th-century Athenian vases. Good times were had by all (Richard sat nearby laughing at us).
Thursday was probably my favorite day. After we drove (on Wednesday evening) from Delphi to Olympia, we went to the site in the morning and started in the museum (a good time). Although Richard spent boringly long going through the room with random bronze stuff, it was definitely my favorite museum visit (beating even the NM, which is much larger and has an entire second floor of pottery we rushed through in 15 minutes) because it had the pediments from your friend and mine, the Zeus temple. Obviously I am partial to the east pediment, since I spent about seven million hours researching it for my presentation (funny story: when I had given the presentation to myself in my room, it lasted for an hour; Richard instructed me to try staying within the 15-20 minute limit. So I skipped almost all of the first half of my presentation, dealing with the reconstruction and other technical stuff, but it ended up lasting for 45 minutes or something anyway. Whoops. Also I think it was entirely schizo since I was skipping around my outline so much, and then going back to fill things in when I realized what I was saying didn't make sense on account of having skipped most of the first half.) but I really do think it is the masterpiece of classical sculpture; the Parthenon kind of gets shafted because the only sculpture from it that survives in decent quality is the interior frieze and a few metopes; the frieze was [literally] an afterthought to the rest of the temple and it doesn't hold a candle to the Temple of Zeus anyway; the pediments probably would have, but they don't survive. Anyway, I digress. The site itself was probably the most beautiful part of the trip. Delphi is more majestic and mountain-y and stuff, but Olympia was apparently unusually idyllic when we were there. It was like being in a Keats poem. Anyway, there isn't actually that much to see at Olympia, so we polished it off after an hour or two, and then we chilled around on the Zeus temple for a while (Richard was closely examining a "bitchin' inscription" that was actually pretty cool; it's from a three-block white marble statue base for a group of some kind, and has three separate inscriptions in two completely different scripts on it. Some people think it was the statue base for the Riace bronzes.) before Richard told us to go wander around the site for another half hour and then meet at the Philippeion for departure. In fact we ended up meeting up underneath a true where we then read Pindar's Olympian odes to one another for forty-five minutes. This was one of my favorite moments from the trip. Then we drove back to Athens and got stuck in a traffic jam for 45-minutes even though it was like 9:00 pm. Halfway through these 45 minutes, some of the girls decided that they really had to go to the bathroom, so they jumped out of the car, ran into a nearby park, and returned a few minutes later (during which time we had gone perhaps 15 meters). Finally we just ditched the car in a parking lot and spent 20 minutes walking to the hotel, where we (sans Nicola) naturally (being Classical Archaeologists) proceeded to stay up drinking a bunch of Heineken while looking at the Acropolis until 2:30 am. Sweet.
On Friday we pretty much just visited the National Museum. They kicked us out, alas, and then we went off to a cafe and Oksana gave her presentations on the Siphnian caryatid and the caryatids from the Erechtheion, which was pretty swank. Then we visited the sweetest bookstore ever, Andromeda (www.andromedabooks.gr), which is a pretty small (about twice the size of my dorm room) shop that only sells books concerning classical antiquity (almost all art history/classical archaeology and history, but also some philosophic and philologic stuff). None of us bought anything because it was also the most expensive bookstore ever; they wanted (for example) 375 euros (= $575 at the exchange rate we had while there) for volumes I and II (not even including vol. III!) of ARV2 (ABV was a mere 295 euros). One book actually cost twice as much in euros as it does in USD at the Sem Coop. This was probably just some crazy mistake on their part, since most of the books they sell are deservedly expensive on account of having been in excellent condition and being out of print. They wanted 119 euros for both volumes of Stewart's Greek Sculpture book, which at the time seemed extremely high but in fact is much lower than it's available elsewhere. (It starts at about $300 on amazon and abebooks and so on.) I wish I had purchased one of the CVA volumes they had, too, because it would just be a good thing to have around for the future. But they were like 80 - 200 euroes and I was (very wisely, even if I wish I hadn't been) too cheap. Anyway! It was a very good but very expensive bookstore and I should stop rambling about individual books. On Friday evening I finally met up with Carrie (yay!) and we all (sans Nicola) went out to dinner at a pretty nice but somewhat overpriced restaurant near the hotel. Good times were had by all. Then on Saturday morning we flew back, boo, and landed in Chicago around 8:30 pm local time. Since the dorms didn't open (curse them) until 8 am today, I had to stay at one of my classmate's apartment, which was a bit of a walk away. Oh well.
All right. I'm going to provide a link to the image in question, which will often be fairly large, and then describe it (or in some cases, them). Note that a lot of pictures are blurry, lying somewhere on a scale from very slightly blurry to quite so. There are two reasons for this. The main one is that nearly all of the blurry pictures are so because either they were taken at very high zoom (12x) or are of a poorly-lit item (flash is prohibited in the museums). The second reason is that I was too busy doing more interesting things, such as actually looking at stuff, to care about my picture quality anyway. They're in chronological order.
This is only a small-ish selection of photos I took; I'll upload all of the rest (probs without commentary) some other time. Thus these are mostly of some interest to everyone, as opposed to the rest of my photos which are probably interesting to only myself and Judy (of my 'readers'), since they're close-ups of inscriptions, technical things like the joins between marble blocks in the Parthenon or traces of paint on things, and so on. But I might also post one or two of these.
http://home.uchicago.edu/~edris/greece/Picture%20128.jpg This is a (blurry because of 12x zoom and no camera support) picture showing part of the north-west-ish (I think) wall of the Acropolis. This part of the wall was constructed after the Persian wars (obv) and you can see in the picture the column drums from one of the temples destroyed by the Persians, built into the wall by the Greeks as an eternal reminder of the invasion.
http://home.uchicago.edu/~edris/greece/Picture%20129.jpg The Hephaisteion, from the Areopagus.
http://home.uchicago.edu/~edris/greece/Picture%20130.jpg Lycabettus, from the Areopagus.
http://home.uchicago.edu/~edris/greece/Picture%20132.jpg A view of the Propylaea leading up to the top of the Acropolis. You can also see the small temple of Athena Nike encased in scaffolding over on the right side of the photo. Note that when reconstruction is finished it will be significantly taller.
http://home.uchicago.edu/~edris/greece/Picture%20135.jpg This is another shot from the Areopagus, showing the walls of the Arcopolis along the north (I think) face.
http://home.uchicago.edu/~edris/greece/Picture%20136.jpg Not an especially interesting photograph, but it's cool because that's where the assembly met to vote. Early on, the speaker stood over on the west end of the rocky stuff, whence he would be framed by a view of the Acropolis. But apparently they decided that was distracting and built bleachers there, moving the 'podium' to the opposite end. (This is another photograph from not the Acropolis itself but the nearby Areopagus.)
http://home.uchicago.edu/~edris/greece/Picture%20137.jpg Parthenon metopes (casts). Yay!
http://home.uchicago.edu/~edris/greece/Picture%20138.jpg The Temple of Olympian Zeus, which had been begun in the late 6th c. and not finished until Hadrian hundreds of years later. (Hadrian, incidentally, also built a sweet arch somewhat nearby, which is inscribed on the inward-facing [vis-a-vis the ancient city walls] side "City of Theseus" and on the outward side "City of Hadrian." Thus like 99% of people in Athens live outside even the 2nd c. AD settlement.)
http://home.uchicago.edu/~edris/greece/Picture%20154.jpg This is the path leading up to a postern gate on the Acropolis (taken from only a couple of meters below the wall). As you may be able to guess if you look closely and think hard, there was once a platform (probably with more steps up to the actual door) up kind of where the steps hewn in the rock end to make the approach easier.
http://home.uchicago.edu/~edris/greece/Picture%20156.jpg These are mostly Roman-y ruins at the east end of the Kerameikos. But the orange thing covered with a makeshift tent of sorts is part of the famous Dipylon Gate.
http://home.uchicago.edu/~edris/greece/Picture%20158.jpg A shot of the Acropolis from the site of the Themistoklean wall. This shows just how small the ancient city was! (If there were no trees and buildings in the way, it would be a 10 minute stroll to the city centre from the wall.)
http://home.uchicago.edu/~edris/greece/Picture%20159.jpg One of the boundary stones ('oros') in the Kerameikos. Richard says this is original, but I'm not entirely sure I believe him. Anyway, it's definitely cool.
http://home.uchicago.edu/~edris/greece/Picture%20166.jpg This is a slightly difficult-to-explain view, but I'll attempt it. If you orient the picture (or your head) so that the arch faces upwards, you will see directly above it fragments of a stone amphora. Anyway, that wall is modern (there's a street on top of it). However, the other things are believed to be the ruins of a demosion sema (the communal graves erected by Athens for its citizen-soldiers who died in the Peloponnesian war), including the amphora, which is set at a point corresponding to the apex of the roof of the tomb; it's slightly confusing because the archway isn't actually related to the tomb but it has a similar outline.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20169.jpg This is (a cast of) the grave stele of Dexileos in situ near the end of the road of tombs outside the city walls in the Kerameikos. Note how this dude's stele (he died in the Corinthian war) is pretty explicity aristocratic and even anti-democratic; he is the man on a horse (symbol of the aristocrat) about to effortlessly trample the cowering, naked, defeated, shameful, democratic foot soldier.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20173.jpg There isn't much of interest in this picture, but it shows how pleasant the agora is!
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20175.jpg A shot up the columns on the east end of the Parthenon from the inside (!). Woot.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20176.jpg This is what the actual interior of the P. currently looks like, thanks to the 25-year-old (and nowhere near complete) restoration project.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20180.jpg A 2450-ish year old join between two blocks of marble in the Parthenon stylobate, taken in digital macro mode from about 3 inches away.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20186.jpg Piles of blocks waiting for restoration.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20192.jpg Hey, Parthenon engineers get to have fun too!
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20201.jpg A shot down the scaffolding-less long side of the Parthenon (from a more precarious position than Richard was willing to assume, as you can see...).
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20205.jpg Surviving traces of paint!
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20213.jpg The temple of Apollo Zoster ("of the belt") on the coast somewhere between Athens and Sounion.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20220.jpg The trespassers! Apprehended by yours truly, conveniently after crossing the fence himself. (You can sort of still see the ruins of the temple through the branches in the top left.)
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20222.jpg This is the findspot of the Aristodikos kouros, on the road near Anavysos. (Or it might be the findspot of the Anavysos kouros. It was all very confusing and backwards.)
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20226.jpg If you wish away the telephone pole and make the road narrower and more dirt- and less gravel-based, this is pretty much what one of the roads alongside which the Anavysos and Aristodikos kouroi would have stood some 2540 years ago looked like.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20227.jpg This is in the vicinity of the findspot of the Anavysos or Aristodikos kouros. We're not sure quite exactly where it's from.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20231.jpg In fact it was probably from down there inside that rusty fence. (This is about 50 m from the last photo.)
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20233.jpg Phrasikleia's findspot, unless it was about 50 m away underneath some trees. We're not too sure.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20235.jpg This is a view of the church courtyard we broke into to have lunch.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20236.jpg And towards the other side. Note the cool offering table.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20237.jpg Yet another shot...
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20239.jpg The wreath Oksana (who is Orthodox) made from flowers in the courtyard and left on the church door.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20241.jpg Chilling around after lunch.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20246.jpg More of the same.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20258.jpg The countryside outside the churchyard.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20259.jpg This is a shot looking out over Arachova; I don't remember exactly where it's from, but I guess I took it from somewhere near the upper end of the town while I was climbing up towards the hill.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20271.jpg Another one of the same, but from a little higher up. Night is falling!
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20277.jpg Part of my part of the suite in Arachova (with Kenny in my rocking chair, the scrub).
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20282.jpg https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20283.jpg The view awaiting me on my balcony in the morning.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20285.jpg The main corner of the balcony (with my tea!).
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20287.jpg A faraway glimpse of the site of Delphi.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20288.jpg Ann petting one of the (mysteriously-prevalent) stray cats around Delphi, this one down in the sanctuary of Athena Pronaia/Pronoia (oh Greeks and their puns; one means 'Athena of foresight' and the other 'Athena before-thenaos', i.e., the sanctuary of Athena that is outside Delphi proper, the main sanctuary of Apollo).
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20291.jpg One of the many nice views from Delphi.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20295.jpg More good view.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20296.jpg And in the other direction, somewhat upwards the mountain. These huge rocky outcroppings are where those convicted of certain crimes would be taken up and hurled to their deaths.
I didn't take a good overview picture of the Athenian treasury myself, but here's an okay (if small and low-quality) one: http://www.beazley.ox.ac.uk/cgprograms/Site/Image/AthTreas.jpg
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20313.jpg Yeah, yeah, theater, etc. etc. Everyone and their dog has seen this shot.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20314.jpg Yay, nature!
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20317.jpg A puzzling inscription on the wall that goes partway around the stadium. This inscription and the wall more generally seem to be from the Archaic period; but the rest of the stadium is much later (Hellenistic or Roman; I forget). This has excited much commentary (since it is extremely unlikely that there was actually an Archaic stadium or large structure of any kind up there).
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20320.jpg 2500-year old paint. (From the Siphnian treasury frieze.)
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20331.jpg The Delphi Charioteer. One of the best-preserved (heck, one of the only) classical bronzes. https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20333.jpg My attempt to take an "upskirt" shot of the charioteer, which was cut short when the guard yelled at me for reaching like four feet over the fence, and then yelled at me again for using flash.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20334.jpg Richard looking strangely flushed by the site of the Argive kouroi... Or maybe that was just walking around in the heat for hours with a jacket and scarf.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20336.jpg More kitties!
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20338.jpg One last shot of the area. I think this one was actually from the town of Delphi itself, where we ate a late lunch at like 3:30 after they kicked us out of Delphi.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20341.jpg Naupactis harbor, where we stopped for some coffee. We decided it was probably built by the Venetians.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20344.jpg They have a statue of Cervantes, who was gloriously wounded fighting The Turk at Lepanto (i.e., a few hundred meters away).
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20346.jpg The river Alpheos just north of Olympia (possibly personified as figure A in the East pediment).
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20349.jpg This is a shot of a model they have set up in the first room of the Olympia museum. It shows the Pelopeion (the supposed grave of Pelops, which you'll see later in a photo of the actual thing). I'm not quite sure what it's deal is, but the DAI just did excavations there in the 90s so I guess it's from then.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20352.jpg A forest of small bronze animal figurines found at Olympia. Woot.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20356.jpg Corinthian-style helmets...
I'm kind of skipping a lot of stuff from the Olympia museum which it might be interesting for you to check out some other time when I post everything. I'm just trying to finish this thing sometime this year!
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20365.jpg This is cool, though: a shot through the pipe in a roof gutter-spout-thing...
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20372.jpg The "Seer" (figure N) from the East pediment of der Zeustempel.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20384.jpg Zeus!
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20395.jpg
(In particular, I took way more photos of the east pediment. But I suggest instead checking out Ashmole and Yalouris' 1967 book on the subject instead, which has like 5 pages of boring and kind of wrong text and then about a million pages of awesome pictures by Alison Frantz.)
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20394.jpg This is cool: one of the metopes, which looks like it's about a foot deep or something even though it's actually quite shallow in comparison to later reliefs. Note the cool way the head sort of loops back around in "front" of Herakles. Badass.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20397.jpg I actually have no idea what this is. I don't think I did at the time, either. It's some cool Hellenistic dude with awesome drapery, though.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20398.jpg This is a really old (bronze age) apsidal dwelling-place. Potsherds found with it date it to, like, hella long ago. But even so we don't think Olympia was continuously occupied or used.
These are all just random shots of Olympia; I'll provide commentary if it occurs to me:
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20400.jpg
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20401.jpg
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20404.jpg
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20406.pg
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20408.jpg Richard examining his "bitchin' inscription."
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20410.jpg
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20412.jpg
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20415.jpg
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20420.jpg This is where we chilled around reading Pindar to each other.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20421.jpg
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20424.jpg Ann and Angela frolic outside the Altis.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20427.jpg (In the National Musuem now) This a shot of the Aristodikos kouros, trying to show how amazing the carving is; the area between the wrist and body is usually left filled in because carving it out is really risky (you're pounding really hard over and over with a hammer on a thin delicate part of the marble).
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20428.jpg My first glimpse of my man!
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20429.jpg The museum courtyard. Woot.
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20437.jpg Slipper slapper!
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20441.jpghttps://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20442.jpg Richard passed out for like four hours on the flight back. One too many Mythoi...
https://webshare.uchicago.edu/users/edris/Public/Picture%20443.jpg A view of the Alps somewhere around the Italian-French border. Woot.
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